Small Win #24: The best way to cook courgettes is also the simplest
1 simple preparation, 5 ways to use it
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Courgettes can be a little underwhelming, a little bland, right?! Undoubtedly of value in a medley — such as in ratatouille or minestrone — left by themselves their extremely high water content renders them a bit meh. And unlike other particularly watery vegetables — like cucumber or watermelon — they’re just not special raw (although they can be eaten that way).
Today, then, I’m sharing a method for cooking courgettes that I turn to frequently when faced with a glut of these green gourds — one which is simple, easy and versatile. By cooking courgettes low’n’slow on the stove with lots of olive oil and garlic (courgettes’ best friend), their sweetness starts to come through and their texture turns silky. It’s almost surprising how something so simple can be so delicious, but sometimes there’s really no need to fuss.
Love,
Alexina
Coming up on Small Wins — If you only ever learn to make one dessert, let it be this. The very best hot sauce. The aubergine dip that’s better than baba ghanoush. Also, as we near 1 year of Small Wins, I am working on an index to help you navigate all the content that has amassed on this little Substack of mine. :)
For my Small Wins+ community —For paid subscribers, we’re diving into all things fish buying and fish cookery next week! One of the best jobs I ever had was in a fishmongers so I’m excited to share this one with you. Become a paid subscriber to gain access.
SOMETIMES THE BEST ACTION IS INACTION
I’ve said it before, and I will say it again: time is a key ingredient in cooking.
Letting a hunk of meat cook low’n’slow in the oven. Eating a curry a day or two after it was made. Allowing fermentation to take place (think sourdough, miso, yoghurt). Leaving an ingredient to dry out over several days (tomatoes, parmesan, mushrooms). In an age where we are constantly looking for the 5-minute fix or the 15-minute meal, it’s worth remembering that letting time do its thing in the kitchen – uninterrupted by our need for something to be ready now – will typically reward us with superior flavour and texture in return for little additional effort.
In this recipe, letting the courgettes cook down slowly over the course of an hour, until they turn jammy and soft, really pays off: it slowly drives some of the water off the courgettes, concentrating their flavour. It allows the flavour compounds of the garlic to bloom in the olive oil. It slowly breaks down the pectin in the courgettes, transforming their texture into something silky — buttery, even. You could almost call it courgette confit, and you know how I feel about confit as a technique.
All of this to say that whilst this recipe is supremely simple, it makes use of two cooking ‘principles’ that make it much greater than the sum of its parts: the power of fat and the power of time. These are lessons worth bearing in mind whenever you’re in the kitchen.
SLOW-COOKED COURGETTES
This is best made in smaller batches — when you scale it up there’s simply too much water to drive off!
Ingredients
4 tbsp olive oil
2 cloves of garlic
4 medium courgettes (around 700g) — there’s something particularly lovely about using a mix of green and yellow courgettes, as it adds extra visual interest — but obviously stick to classic courgettes if prefer!
1/2 to 3/4 tsp fine sea salt, to taste — I keep the salt at the lower end of this range if I know I’m going to add more salty ingredients to it later e.g. turning it into a pasta sauce with pasta water + topping with parmesan
Lemon or lime juice, to taste
Method
Add the olive oil to a large saucepan and place over a medium heat. Meanwhile, top and tail the courgettes then slice very finely into rounds around 1-2mm thick — this is quickest with a mandoline, but can also be done with a knife.
These cut-resistant gloves are a God-send when using a mandoline!
Add the courgettes, garlic and salt to the pan and stir to coat everything in the olive oil. Turn the heat up to medium-high and cook, giving the occasional stir, until the courgette slices are starting to break down, around 7 minutes.
Turn the heat down to low and cook for another 50 minutes until the courgettes are jammy and soft (like butter!). Stir every so often, adding a splash of water if needed. Allow to cool and use in any number of ways (ideas below).
PLUS FIVE WAYS TO USE THEM!
As a filling for quesadillas (with lots of cheese, obviously — I like cheddar or gruyere). Season with lime juice and zest.
To top a puff pastry tart (see pic above). Score a 1cm border around the edge. Spread ricotta over the base up to the border. Top with the courgettes. Brush the border with egg wash or milk to glaze. Bake at 220C (200C fan)/425F/gas 7 for 25-30 minutes until golden.
As a pasta sauce — simply add a spoonful or two of creme fraiche + some pasta water. Garnish the pasta with parmesan, lemon zest and a drizzle of olive oil.
In a rice gratin, replacing the grated courgettes in this Julia Child recipe.
Spooned onto toast (“crostini” in fancy terms). Grill some sourdough with olive oil then rub a garlic clove over the surface. Spread ricotta over the toast then top with the courgettes and a showering of parmesan, if liked.
They would also be good layered onto a pizza or anointing a sandwich… Truly, so versatile.
FURTHER READING + RESOURCES
I was recently sent some pasta from the Northern Pasta Co, who make pasta with regeneratively farmed spelt in the UK and I have to say, it was delicious! I used the casarecce shape for the courgette pasta above and it had great flavour and texture. It’s now available on Ocado.
This is being today!
You are a godsend, such delicious ideas!